I suppose you heard about such a fucking great shit as TASER. It is a kind of cool shocker that those fat ass American cops love to use a lot. I've already mentioned about it in my article about Mean Shocker which was the first part of our secret project for developing personal non-lethal weapon. As you all know it is based on the same principle as TASER, rebuilt our way to gain the mean-ass effect. However, the TASER itself is as bad as Chinese piece of shit, which are widely spread by online, if it's used as regular stun gun. It's output (1.2 wt) is even less than allowed by our law for civil citizens (which means not effective at all).. not mentioning police's one. The TRUE "mean power" is in remote operation at which you get the far greater distance between the contact points on the victim's body and the longer time of the current effect! That is why TASER effect can be compared to a sledge hammer, it's like: BANG - you done. :-)
As you know, our Mean Shocker works as a fucking sledge hammer already so why not to make remote effect to make it even moreMEAN?! Piece of cake! We gonna explain how to do that using things that are easy to get. Don't forget to get the iron, regular syringe, beer and some motherf… Just in case.. fuck off all morons and retards. I take no responsibility if you get your brains fucked up reading this text. So here we go!
First of all a few words for those who haven't read prev articles or just don't get the idea. There are not many companies who sell remote type of shockers: Taser, Stinger systems, Law Enforcement Associations (LEA), Chinese Jiun An Technology and our valorous company MART All their devices have the same principle: the shocker has single-use cartridge that shoots 2 barbed projectiles (probes - correct name) with isolated wires. After hitting the flesh they hook to it and shoot the current until the operator release the trigger or till timer cuts the power like in a Taser.
ALL these devices have one shortcoming: single-shot. Imagine what's it gonna be if you shot and probes missed or there is no contact for some reason? To reload the gun or shoot again it takes about 10 seconds during this time you gonna be knocked out with the shocker in the ass. For this case brave American cops have 9 mm and they aren't afraid to use it unlike our cops and they don't really care if the shocker did its job. Our cops have ÏÐ-73 codename "democratizator" which they get in exchange of shocker. Kinda aint cool to use rubber club against junkies better to do it from distance. But there is always a rubber club if shocker wont work - no big deal. Anyway they prefer to sit on their asses till the mess is over if it gets big. Mongoloids never change and what do we get? Industry and civil (imbecile) law in Russia leave us no fucking choice even though we got stunning (!) idea of our Russian cartridge (ÁÒÝÐ) which is mostly civil variant of remote shocker. It turns out useless by a few reasons.
Following problem caused by the principle of effectiveness of remote shocker: satellites accuracy. How do we make it more precise and effect on the entrire range within all effective distance? Every inventor forced to make love with this problem. For example TASER has 3 !!! different cartridges (depends on distance) to gain the best accuracy… that's fucked up. I wonder have they tried to shot from more than 5 meters distance? However in LEA they did shot… their device unlike TASER designed on idea of making satellites far from each other to get the angle if differentiation less and what do you think? Motherfucker works! Hits target at 5 and 10 meters with the same accuracy. They even shot some video about it. But… how the hell did they think to put this AGGREGATE (I think it's the best description) in a pocket? Holster?! Oh, right. They thought about it as they say in the video: this device is bigger than TASER that's why its kinda better. It has a comfy handle which help kicking shit outta assholes. Last drop was when Pavel Feldman (a jew?) putted on bullet proof west and went for testing his masterpiece. Kinda others got nigger in wife beater and we got bullet proof west that's why our device is a kick ass shit :-D
Chinks surprised with functions as always. Their shocker "RAYSUN X-1" (typical Chinese name) not just shooting wires with satellites but pepper spray, rubber bullets and some fireworks too. Still, you have to reload and yell "I know kong fu!" to avoid getting your own gun in your own ass. In other aspects it is a red colored (typical Chinese color) copy of TASER.
And did we do? We didn't beat abound the bush and found our own way. Straight Russian way! Russian cartridge shoots both satellites without divergence angle, not letting Russian civil shocker become effective. Maybe just like some kind of dildo but it doesn't even have lubricant in… Cop's variant compensates its shortcomings with high output power of 10 watt, 8 times more than TASER X-26 (!).
Anyway I hope you get the idea what is remote shocker and what it should NOT be like. Now we know how to do our device. We know it by recently appeared Russian technology PDG (Pull Down Gun) which got rid in its own unique way of all those shortcomings that all modern remote shockers have. This is a story for another article and now you can go visit official PDG website and see it in action. The idea of PDG is using unitary ammo which makes it possible to be magazine loaded and small sized. Also it has great output power which guarantees knock down target in no time (about 0.3-0.5 sec). Electric part of it based on Mean Shocker circuit so that once the offender got shot will not get on his feet and start acting for a long time. Those who already did the Mean Shocker know what I'm talking about.
Let's get down to business. Since PDG is not produced commercially as it is only a prototype, there is no sence of copying it. Besides, its has too complicated mechanics to make at home. We gonna use the idea of unitary ammo and Mean Shocker circuit which we had long before PDG. The size of the whole thing should be a little bigger than Mean Shocker or TASER or about the same. It means that fucked up ÌÀÐÒ circuit and fucking huge transformer are no longer useful for us. We wanna have small size with the same power (it has to fit the shells as well). Therefore we will use completely new circuit which is more effective and way smaller. Besides the device will have batteries which are easier to get and easier to replace in field condition. How many shots? I think optimal way is to have 3 rounds (it's not easy to make more then 2 shots in real combat) and one more just in case. And of course our device has to have ability of being used as usual shocker even though it has ammo loaded.
We simply took the best of all existing devices and designed it as simple as possible. Now I'm gonna explain how to make it at home but first make sure you got your mind set and then read next :-)
Take a look at new circuit some of you may say WTF?! Chill, its not as scary as it seems. Actually there are less parts then in first circuit of Mean Shocker. Besides it's easier to repeat because parameters don't differ much. Of course you need elementary skills of soldering but if you read this text this means that you are not a total moron and you will work it out. The circuit based on a cheap and popular chip-timer 555. It works on a reverse course which is optimal for charging capacitors and also allows to gain high voltage at minimum winding. Besides it's way simpler. Circuit efficiency is 85-90% that lets you use smaller rechargeable batteries or even alkaline batteries. There was an idea to use one PP3 rechargeable battery which provides 14 watt power but it fucks up pretty fast. Regular battery sucks ass giving 10 watt. So we use 2 rechargeable batteries (~18Volt) to ease load and increasing the efficiency of conversion. Regular alkaline PP3 batteries (like Duracell or Energizer) will work without problems at full power of circuit, which is 17-18W. Actually you can get up to 25W adjusting parts but I think it won't be rational. In this case the coolest part is that you can buy batteries everywhere, plug in and start kicking shit out of fags. You can carry extra batteries with you too.
Main difference from the previous version is increased voltage on capacitors - 2500v (instead of 1400) due to which at the same output power of shocker (~7-10 W) mean power increases. Its all because of the current pulse becomes several times more on due to Ohm law (you don't know what is it about? GO FUCK YOURSELF!!!) - as we mentioned in previous version it is current but not voltage that makes our shocker real bad ass motherfucker. The real power gained with capacitors that have 10 times less capacity comparing to previous one. This helped to simplify the whole thing and to make high voltage transformer smaller. Inverter's transformer also became smaller but a bit tricky to make. :-)
We consider our comrades' wishes therefore there are less complicated components :-) Generally speaking its only surge arrester - EPCOS 2500v, without it - won't work. There can be a problem with finding ferrite rods though it must be easier to find then to make your own one. Other thing you can simply buy at any radio store or order online. Anyway, make the list of components and go get it and don't forget the beer keg otherwise something will go wrong for sure ;-) Don't be stingy - buy best one.
Now that we got beer and all components you start thinking what to do with all this stuff. I recommend starting with inverter transformer. Technology is the same as in previous article though you should be more careful with phasing e.g. direction of winding (both winding better to do in one direction) and not to mess up the start and the end of it. If you connect it wrong the device won't work as it should or won't work at all. The start and the end of winding marked with a dot. Actually doesn't matter which ends to connect its more important to have windings reverse phasing to each other as it shows on the circuit. First we do secondary winding - 350 turns with the 0.07-0.1mm wire. Do it carefully, place thin layer of insulation after each layer of wire. Simple winding even with double coated magnet wire wont work - voltage is too high. Primary winding - 13 turns with 0.6mm wire. Isolation must be perfectly done as much as the spacing allows. Then there is a tricky part - between cups place 3-4 layers of round pieces of regular office paper e.g. make spacing of about 0.12mm, then tighten it with insulating tape or something else BUT !!!ATTENTION!!! DO NOT GLUE IT! Because during setting process you will need to disassemble the core many times.
Now lets make HV transformer. Using ÁÀßÍ technology It will be way easier. This time we don't need any crappy pipes grinding wheels, forget about wax and replace it with epoxy resin, fuck the vacuum pump as well! This time ferrite rod will be small, and readily available. So how to make transformer without layers, sections, precious insulating and vacuuming process? It's a Russian babushka trick ;-)
So here's what we need: the rod 6x25mm made from ¹87 material, double coated magnet wire 0.14-0.16mm, high voltage teflon coated wire 0.07mm or just magnet wire 0.6-0.7mm, insulating tape, heat shrink 2.5mm, hot melt glue and 2 syringes: 2 and 10 cc. Let me explain the specifications for the wires: double coated magnet wire is a type of wire that has much greater insulation comparing to others. With the given diameter it can hold up to 2000v. for example regular magnet wire can hold <500v. Therefore for guaranteed isolation of HV transformer we need exactly this type of wire. You can find it in coils of magnetic starters for 380v. It won't be hard to find on the markets. There is nothing else to loot from fucked up starters. Pretty possible the regular wire would work but it hasn't been tested.
Process starts with primary winding. Take the rod and isolate it with one layer. It's better to do with stripes of tape along the rod. Next we do primary winding of 25 turns with high voltage teflon coated wire. Covering it with some PVC would be a good idea, or with insulating tape but don't make it thicker than 9mm so that would fit the 2cc syringe. Cut off the syringe to overall length 27mm and place the rod with winding in it then glue it with hot melt glue. The quality of gluing is less important than isolation reliability of the tip of the rod because this is where the maximum potential of voltage is, and if the isolation will be fucked up you get short-circuit.
Make secondary. We need some sort of rod 10mm in diameter and 200-250mm length, long drill bit will do. Wrap it with paper few times. Fix it in a drill and start winding carefully (!) with the double coated magnet wire 0.16mm for total length of 190-200mm. If you cant use drill (or you got lots of patience and beer ;-) you can do it by hands - you must have accurate winding without spaces and overlaps. No need to make it too tight. After pulling out the drill bit the winding will be lose and bigger diameter so our goal is to tighten it along the axis. Now the winding must easily be tightened to the length 25-30mm and this is how you should place it on a prepared piece of syringe. Hot glue the ends of it and connect one end of winding according to phasing. For those who had too much beer I explain that in the end you must have secondary connected to primary so the whole thing is like one winding with a tap. I hope you are all now connected and there will be no stupid questions. ;-)
After all this crap you got HV transformer in your hands :-) Smart asses already figured out what is the catch: no need any vacuum or anything to glue it with epoxy resin. Epoxy resin itself easily gets into all kinds of holes you just have to heat it up a little bit to make it more liquid. Heat it up by small portions to prevent chain reaction. So basically you can cover the HV transformer with epoxy when you finish installing the whole thing. Better to make 2 transformers, one for experiments and setting ups and another for covering with epoxy resin. In case you don't have 2 of them I suggest you to consider following idea.
The body of HV transformer will be 10cc syringe. Better to find the one with the nose placed aside and with the plastic pump without rubber. I couldn't find one so I drilled a little hole for the wire. Wire fixed with hot melt glue. Other 2 ends tied in a ring and left inside. After gluing you can easily get the other ends out of the syringe body (coating doesn't stick to epoxy resin). It goes like this: the coil pressed by the pump and dipped into the hot epoxy (70-80 'C) and SLOWLY sucking the epoxy resin into syringe. The air bubbles staying on the surface. Actually it's pretty much the same as vacuuming. Cap the hole in syringe and leave it in vertical position to dry out. You can tie it to a hot water pipe or radiator to make it faster. After its ready use heat shrink and hot melt glue to cover ends of the HV transformer. You need high voltage isolation to prevent corona arcing on the surface of the syringe body. In the end you get some shit like you can see on the photo :-) Transformer must have minimum 25mm discharge in the air and nothing on the syringe body.
Its time to assemble the circuit and to make sure it works. First of all have some beer to prevent handshaking because you will have to work fast but accurately ;-) If you suck at soldering I suggest you to get a microchip panel - it will reduce the risk to fuck up everything. We won't do PCB though it might make the assembling easier.
First of all take a microchip and look closely at it to find the key and pin numbers. You can see these numbers on the picture, specially for the cockeyed morons :-) Carefully solder 2 jumpers: below at pins 4 and 8, at the top at 2 and 6. Then solder other parts according the circuit. Basically you can test the device already and if you have frequency counter you will see mystical number 66.6 KHz - it's the mysteriously-evilly occult thing that makes it all work :-D But as you know there is a crisis everywhere so - no frequency counter. We will just continue soldering. According to plan solder 470 uF capacitor and FET transistor IRF540. You can solder it as you like (a variant you can see on the pic) but the most important part is it should not be higher than 12mm. And last thing you do - connect the transformer.
Assemble high voltage part, then we connect it to power source. Just don't short-circuit the battery with the RED wAire - there was one idiot who tried to set up the inverter like that, and this is how he got the Medal Of Shithead :-D Anyway, PAY ATTENTION!!! First switching on should be short and more like a striking one contact with another (like lighting up a match). Who knows what you've done there - just in case of safety. The whole circuit WILL WORK 100% guarantee if you didn't fuck up with the assembling and all parts are good :-) You can have a fail if you got a shitty 10Mega Ohm resistor - in this case the circuit won't work at all. This resistor should be RUSSIAN and its better to have 3x3M resistors. During the setting up process it should be removed out of circuit. But, ATTENTION, don't forget to discharge capacitors with a screwdriver after each test run or else you will be fucking stuttering even before you finish reading this article :-D
Finally you hear bad ass crackling sound :-) It's not the time to run around clapping hands. Not yet. Now you need to set up the circuit to optimal output. This is why you need those little round pieces of paper which are placed in between 2 parts of transformer! Take any cheap Chinese multimeter set to 10A and connect into the circuit breaking close to power source. Watch the current changing (and the crackling sound of spark) depending on how many pieces of paper placed in there :-) Increasing quantity you gain current power and energy conversion efficiency will change as well. Our goal is to notice the optimal moment when you get 1.2-1.4A - this is the optimal for this circuit with efficiency of 84% and the inverter's output power is 17W. Personally i used only 2 round pieces or paper.
If you think this is it - FUCK THAT :-), you don't know a shit! The most important now is to test bad ass mean power of HV part. Whether the power is transferred through ionized channel or not? The most FAQs were about this part. Shitheads change the circuit of HV transformer and parameters of the whole circuit and then ask me kinda "what the fuck the shocker does spark but no power?". Guess what was the answer ;-) Now I hope everybody understand that everything you read here was tested and any changes are not acceptable. As they say - you've been warned… :-)
Though fails can be caused not just by fucked up assembling but also because of fucked up discharger (but in case with EPCOS it is nearly impossible). Also there can be a leak in HV transformer which is hard to see :-( Even in mass production there are many defected transformers so this is why they are tested. We will need 40-60Wt incandescent bulb for this test. One end of HV transformer connected to lamp bulb another in 5mm away from it - watching brightness of the lamp light. Now move away one end on 20mm and watch - brightness should not change! Put some fabric (or leather) between lamp contact and HV contact - test again. It's possible that the distance of discharging will decrease but the light should be as bright as before. Lots of people got fucked in testing it on real goblins in real cloth - those goblins started to kick the shit outta testers for some reason :-D
Last test, this time is liquid medium. Prepare the saline solution - 9 grams of cooking salt for 1 liter of boiled water (or just buy it in a drug store (NS-normal saline)). Saline imitates electrolyte balance of the human body so we can find out if the ionization works, before getting ass kicked :-) Pour saline in a cup 8-10cm diameter and place contacts on the edge of the cup just like in the lamp bulb test. During this test the spark should be strong at any distance from saline. Up to maximum distance of 30mmm. Take the lamp bulb and connect it in series with the saline - lamp light will be less bright because of resistance of the saline. BUT Spark should be just as strong at any distance.
If all tests were successful - read next and start making bayano-shots.
Now, altogether, imagine flying bayan *(see comment at bottom) which is not just flying but also dragging a wire! No druggie could possibly imagine THAT sick shit even in a worst nightmare :-D This is why we gonna get it done.
To be honest, that technology was not an easy task - it took almost 2 years to develop. Any commercial stun gun cartridge is primitive at the first look, but if you aim to make in "on the knee" there is a multidimensional array of hidden dickheads, arising alltogether on your way :-D
The most hemorroidal part during development was a pyrotechnic charge, which is needed to shoot projectiles to the target. From the one side, it should be simple to make, from the other - should have stable parameters from charge to charge, which is hard to achieve using our kitchen technologies. The solution was, as usual, found accidently during the bEEr drinking process (being more precise - after severe hangover ;-) - to have an industrial quality, you need to take a charge made industrially! Crazy idea, isn't it ?! Some induvidulals may now say, that you don't need fucking much BRAINs to think of that :-D But the whole trick is where we take that charge! It could be freely and legally bought in any firearm store, and it's name is - the FIREARM PRIMER CAP.
We will use it to make an electric igniter, pyro charge and the tray, pushing the projectile, at the same time!
The projectile is made from small 1ml syringe which, itself, will cause fear (and not only fear ;-) among druggie dunces :) By the way, we have chose the BAYAN (tm :-D) technology exclusively to support our medical industry during crisis times :) Hope, thanks to that article, sales amount in drug stores will rise significantly :-D The syringe itself (also called "insuline") can be of several types, but the best choice is "Micro-Fine" brand with integrated fine needle - frequently used by druggies to make injections under the eye. Basically, you can use any other syringe or any other suitable plastic or metal tube matching by diameter. Course, everything like that was tested during development, but the BAYAN technology has proved to be the most appropriate.
Among other things we will need many 2ml syringes and 0.16mm copper wire, like used in HV tranformer, or any other wire with close diameter, does not matter insulated or not. Also we need Super Glue, some paper (regular office paper will do) and fish hooks, which will directly catch druggies :) I advice to pick up good quality hooks of size ¹12-15, made from thin wire, like something from "MUSTAD" brand.
Let's start by making projectiles. Take the small syringe and remove needle as shown on the picture, then cut syringe body to 27mm. Heat the fish hook with a lighter or candle then bend out into straight line and cut to 12mm. Next you should melt the hook into syringe and makine sure it's centered. Also make small hole near the egdge of syringe for wire run-out.
Now activate the great plan of making a pyroelectric charge :) For this part, collect all unused needles from 2ml syringes and take according amount of firearm caps. Carefully remove the foil cover from the cap by hooking it with a needle or knife, and cut the needles as shown on picture. Now carefully glue needles into caps using hot melt glue gun. Use MINIMAL amount of glue, do not let it flow over the edge of the CAP! The charge is ready now. Simple and wonderful, isn't it ? ;-)
Now it's time to assembly the cartridge. To make it, we need to make first a paper tube, which will act as a frame and barrel. Take one small syringe and stick two stripes of insulation tape along it, so increasing it's diameter. This is needed to let the projectile move freely along the barrel, so it will fly succesfully toward the druggie, instead of exploding to hell :-) Take a paper sheet and cut it into stripes 50mm wide and 250mm long. Take one stripe and wrap around prepared syringe, applying some Super Glue during the process. Take off the finished tube and make a 10-12mm lenghtwise cut from single end. From the same end, insert the projectile until it will completely hide inside the tube (the end of the fish hook should be at one level with the tube end), insert the wire tail into the cut and fix with glue. Next, insert the pyro charge from the opposite side of the tube and carefully fill free space with hot melt glue. Don't let glue to reach the cap, otherwise it can cause explosion when firing and damage your weapon :-(
The final step - cut 2ml syringes to 55mm, remove ends and glue cartridge assembly inside, using hot melt glue or fast-curing epoxy.
The electro-BAYAN-cartridge is ready :-) Repeat the above actions depending on druggies population in your area ;-) Consider, that each stun gun shot takes 2 cartridges, because you need two wires to conduct electric current.
But before you start shooting druggies, dunces and other scum, i recommend to test cartridges for proper operation. To do so, fix 2 cartridges 5cm apart onto some piece of non-conducting material like plastic or wood, simply use hot melt glue. Place a piece of wire or foil in front side, to allow cartridges connect when HV will be applied from the back side. In place of target simply use any clothes, like and old jacket. Make a shot, by connecting high voltage terminals to the cartridges. You should see most projectiles connected to target, while wires are parallel, having uniform tension along entire distance, like tensile springs.
If something is wrong, read the manual again, take some rest & beer and look for mistakes :-) This technology was tested many times and has proved its reliability and simplicity. So, dont worry if something goes wrong at first time, as we say "worst-first", i believe with some experience you will be able to make this cartridges just like conveyor :-)
This short video shows what you should get.
Now we need almost everything necessary to make a really fucking EVIL stun pistol, codename "NLO-1" ;-) More known among informed persons as "FUCK TASER" or just FUCK :-D Because it has moving parts, we can't fill entire device woth epoxy as we did before, but despite this, the proces of making this pistol will be even more simple :-) Two simple materials, glass fiber and plywood came to help us, directed by great PC software - SolidWorks. It has automatically created all requireddravings, leaving you simple job - to cut the parts from template and glue together, like a fucking toy for small kids :-D
Few words about materials. To make prototype, at fist we used foamed PVC plastic - material, usually used in advertising workshops to make tablets, layouts, etc. Quite interesting material - tough, easy to cut with a knife and glued with superglue. However, later, the hidden dickhead has shown up - plastic was too fragile, in some places it was broken after few shots, and also due to its thickness of 3mm, entire device was obtained too fat, just like a ordinary citizen of USA :-) So finally we used a combined composition - glass fiber for the clip and body of the gun, where minimal thickness is required, and plywood for the ribs of the frame. Conventional hot-melt glue is used for bonding because it provides the greatest strength for the connection of these materials, besides, if the seam will suddenly break, it could be repaired in the field using conventional gas lighter :-)
Let's see this composition in the naked look :-) Device consists of a frame and clip, which is very similar to a matchbox by design :-) By the course of thought, under the infuence of bEEr, VODKA, and other alcohol, this box slightly increased in size an overgrown with details in the form of electronic circuitry and the grip with batteries inside - and we got our gun ;-)
As it seen, we got it easier than a steam locomotive ;-) The upper cover of the clip bay is also the base for mounting electronic circuitry. All parts just glued to it with hot melt adhesive, then filled with epoxy making a single unit. Before filling, some pieces of plastic, or other non-adhesive material, are temporally glued around, making a pool. One of the part-time followers of our sect under nickname "KOT" suggested to use material from juice packs, and as we can see, it works fucking good enough :-) After epoxy has cured, walls are removed and now you can grind corners with knife and sandpaper to give it a beautiful view :-)
Power switch and fire button are placed between batteries and upper wall of the pistol. You are free to chose where to install them exactly, so i did not placed it on 3d model. The battery cover is not provided by plan, batteries are simply fixed by scotch tape :-) Of course you can easily make and glue this part if you wish.
By the way, some words about glue. Hot melt glue is a polymer, which varies by hardness and melting point. In theory, there is optimal temperature for each kind of glue, which should be developed by glue gun. However, in Russia you can by mostly "lao hui van" production, in other words - made fucking guess where, by some fucking narrow-eyed worker and quality is like fuck. Consequently, bonding directly by the gun does not always provide a quality seam. Therefore, use two-stage method: first put the glue on the entire length of the seam, then heat with the lighter and quickly put parts together. An indication of the optimum heating is the appearance of small bubbles (ie boiling) on the surface of glue.
Now the most interesting part, which hides the secret of our gun mechanics - the clip. To achieve minimal size and ease of construction, we send to fuck all conventional parts, inherent to weapon clip: springs, feeders, clamps and other trash. There remained only the frame, cartridges and... rubber band! Clearly, this unexpected move has not come without help of bEEr, so i will explain the essence for those, who had not some yet ;-)
This rubber, also called "WOWEN ELASTIC" is bought in the sewing store,ie the same place where you can also find fabric, thread, needles etc. It is used in pants, shorts, sleeves etc. We need one about 35-40mm wide.
Another thing about clip assembly. As seen from the drawing, the rear wall has 2 holes - they have to be connected with conductor, otherwise it won't shoot. You can use just a wire for this, but better stick a piece of foiled fiberglass (like used for PCBs), like i did. It will increase the strength of the clip against blowback force, and ensure reliability of the gun.
The gun works as follows. When the clip moved forward, the air gaps between HV terminals and cartridges are shortened, so high voltage breaks them, and current flows by the path "upper cartridge - a jumper in the rear wall - lower cartridge", ie makes series connection, so both cartridges fire (just like in the test) and projectiles fly to the enemy :-) Fired cartidge becomes an insulator (because the wire ran out), ignition cirtuit breaks, and the current starts flows to enemy's body, until he is dropped to ground and wires will cross, shorting the circuit and automatically limiting the shock :-) Thus, the current always applied for NECESSARY and SUFFICIENT time to neutralize a specific subject! Then you can let go the fire button and pull out both cartridges holding wires. Again simple and fucking nice solution, and you don't need any specific recharge mechanism :-) The shear force of the cartridge is very low thanks to round shape and smooth material, but quite enough to prevent cartidges falling out of the clip accidently. After pulling out the upper cartridges, they will be displaced by lower ones, thanks to tensile force of the elastic, and you can shoot next druggie :-D
Well, that's it, congratulations - now you have a real shooting taser gun! Take some bEEr and start your fight against drug addicts, dunce, cattle or what... Each has its own loose screw - the choice is yours.
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